What common repairs cost, and how to sanity-check a quote
Compare repair quotes accurately. Learn what drives cost differences, what cheap quotes leave out, and how to sanity-check each line.
You've just got a quote for R8,000 to fix something that sounds straightforward — a clutch, maybe brake pads, or a gearbox problem. But another workshop quoted half that, and a third came in higher. So which one is realistic, and which one is padding the bill or cutting corners?
The gap between quotes often isn't about honesty versus dishonesty. It's about what each mechanic has factored in, what they'll buy, how long they think the job takes, and what they're not saying at all. Learning to spot those invisible costs — and the quotes that deliberately hide them — is the only way to know if you're being taken for a ride.
Labour time: the biggest variable
Two workshops might both fix the same fault, but one charges R600 per hour and expects the job to take 4 hours, while the other charges R450 per hour but quotes 7 hours. The first bill looks lower, yet they're both quoting roughly the same total labour cost.
What drives the hours? Experience, workshop efficiency, the condition of your car, and whether they've encountered this fault before. A mechanic who's done the same job hundreds of times might genuinely finish faster than one who's still learning that brand. That's not always reflected in their hourly rate — sometimes the slower workshop is cheaper overall because they charge less per hour.
When you compare quotes, ask each mechanic how many labour hours they've estimated. That number matters more than the hourly rate alone. If one estimate is significantly higher, ask why — are they allowing for corrosion, rust, parts that are seized and hard to shift, or older equipment taking longer to diagnose?
Parts: original, aftermarket, or salvage
A quote that doesn't specify what parts will be fitted is one you can't properly compare. Some workshops use original equipment manufacturer (OEM) parts — the genuine Bosch or Nissan component. Others fit aftermarket parts that do the same job, often for less. Some use reconditioned or salvage parts, which are cheaper still but carry different warranties.
You'll notice quotes split on this immediately. If one mechanic quotes a gearbox repair using a new original seal kit and another plans to fit a reconditioned unit from a spares outlet, the prices will diverge wildly — and rightfully so. Neither is dishonest, but they're selling you different things.
Before you choose based on price, understand what you're getting. Ask if parts carry a warranty, whether they're new or reconditioned, and what happens if the part fails in six months. A cheap quote might be banking on salvage parts with no guarantee; a costly one might include a genuine part with a three-year warranty. That context changes whether the price is fair.
What a lean quote leaves out
The most dangerous quotes are the ones that seem impossibly low. Often, they're quoting the mechanical work only:
- Disposal of old parts, oil, or broken components
- Diagnostic time to find the actual fault
- Re-testing and safety checks after the repair
- Re-gassing air conditioning or refilling fluids
- Alignment checks if suspension has been disturbed
A quote might say "clutch replacement: R3,500" without mentioning that once the gearbox comes out, they'll find the engine mounting is cracked, or the flywheel is worn and really ought to be turned. Suddenly you're mid-job and the bill creeps up. That's not always dishonest — sometimes hidden faults only show once work starts — but a robust quote will flag where surprises might lurk.
When you call back after collecting quotes, ask what's *not* included. What happens if something unexpected is found? Will they ring you before spending more? Do they charge for diagnostics, and if so, will that fee be deducted from the repair cost if you proceed?
The sanity check
Compare apples to apples. Lay quotes side by side and write down what each one covers: labour hours, parts (new, aftermarket, or reconditioned), warranty, and what happens if the job uncovers more damage. If one quote is dramatically lower, you know why — fewer hours assumed, cheaper parts, or less diagnostic work included. If one is much higher, ask the mechanic to justify each line.
You don't need to accept the cheapest quote. You need the one that's transparent about what it includes and confident enough to explain the numbers. Strove lets you compare verified mechanics side by side, read what others have paid, and ask for itemised quotes before you commit. Use that to build your confidence in the price you're about to sign off on.
Common questions
- Why do mechanics quote such different hours for the same repair?
- Experience, workshop tools, and the condition of your car all affect how long a job takes. A mechanic who's done a repair hundreds of times might finish faster than one still learning that brand or model. Older cars often take longer due to rust or seized fasteners. Ask each mechanic to explain their labour estimate so you understand what's driving the hours.
- Is a cheap quote always a bad sign?
- Not necessarily. It might reflect lower hourly rates, faster experience with that specific job, or cheaper parts — all legitimate. But sanity-check what's actually included. If a quote seems impossibly low, ask what's excluded: diagnostics, parts disposal, re-testing, or fluid top-ups. A quote with no detail is harder to trust than one that itemises every cost.
- What should I do if a mechanic finds extra damage mid-job?
- Before signing a quote, ask how the workshop handles unexpected faults discovered during work. A trustworthy mechanic will contact you, explain what they've found, and ask permission before proceeding. Never agree to a quote with unclear terms about hidden damage — get that conversation in writing or confirmed over WhatsApp.
- Does it matter if parts are new, aftermarket, or reconditioned?
- It affects both price and warranty. New OEM parts are most expensive but carry full guarantees. Aftermarket parts are cheaper and usually reliable. Reconditioned parts are cheapest but may have shorter or no warranty. Ask each mechanic what type they plan to fit and what warranty comes with it — that justifies the price difference.
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